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Leg vise

Leg vise

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We are shipping as normal, but have closed our walk-in sales department. These go by many names through-out world. Its purpose is the same for all the names though, and that is to forge on. Just like an anvil must have weight to send the energy into your work so too must a leg vise. The leg vises we sell are made from modern tool steels and have been built for any of your forging tasks.

leg vise

It is best mounted in a location that you can get all the way around it rather than on a bench or attached to a shelf. Only the original post forging vise handle should be used when tightening the leg vise.

Using pipes and similar bars to get greater leverage is strongly discouraged. We are praying for all folks experiencing problems due to the Corona virus. As soon as restrictions are cancelled we will open the store back up. Thank you, Stay Healthy and Safe. In stock. Post Leg Vise for sale with mm 5. Item vise. Be the first to review this product. Notify me when the price drops. Add to Cart.

Add to Wish List Add to Compare. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Details Reviews Post Leg Vise for sale with mm 5. It is best mounted in a location that you can get all the way around it rather than on a bench or attached to a shelf These leg vises are cast with striated and heat treated jaws Drop Forged screw mm approx 6" jaw 41" tall 30" to mount 5" maximum jaw opening Medium Duty Only the original post forging vise handle should be used when tightening the leg vise.

Quality 1 star 2 stars 3 stars 4 stars 5 stars. Price 1 star 2 stars 3 stars 4 stars 5 stars. Value 1 star 2 stars 3 stars 4 stars 5 stars. Submit Review.I built my workbench back in January of this year I love it. My favorite feature on the workbench is a homemade leg vise. I have since acquired a lathe and had the opportunity to make another leg vise.

Mine is still working fine with zero problems. The new leg vise will be made for my friend Shawn Stone. He lives close to me and I stop by his shop from time to time. He liked the idea and we came up with a plan. I thought it would be a lot of fun to make the vise myself so I decided to do so. First up was to remove mine and use it for reference. For the screw assembly I used a scaffold leveling leg that my friend Wayne Brown gave me and for the hub a chunk of walnut that Shawn acquired from Matt Cremona another YouTube channel you should check out.

Before getting started on turning the hub I wanted to get the chop glued up in clamps. I first cut two pieces at my miter saw station. And the storage is also awesome :.

leg vise

I wanted a nice clean glue joint so I started at the jointer to get the faces nice and flat. As you can see the board is wider than my jointer. I previously made a video showing how to joint boards wider than your jointer with a jointer and planer. The process is really easy and increases your jointing capacity.

The jointer basically makes a wide rabbet cut. With a piece of plywood down on the bed of the planer the jointed rabbet can ride along the plywood and plane the top surface flat and parallel to the rabbet face.

Then the board can be flipped over and the rest of the original face will be planed flat and parallel. Gluing the chop is business as usual. Glue and lots of clamps. With the chop in clamps I switched back to the hub.

Shawn wanted to use a nice chunk of walnut and provided me with a piece he already had. The objective was to remove as little material as possible as Shawn has plans for the rest of the chunk.

I removed what I needed at the bandsaw. Before mounting it on the lathe I did clean up the outside faces so that they were flat and parallel. Once on the lathe I turned it round with a roughing gouge. To drill the screw hole I needed it mounted into a chuck. To do so I used the parting tool with a caliper to cut an appropriate size tenon on one end. Once reversed and mounted into the chuck I used the parting tool to cut the other side.

It consists of a tenon that will be recessed into the leg vise chop and a grove for the retaining ring. Finally the screw hole can be drilled. I ended up making this hole slightly larger than what it needs to be but it was the closest forstner bit I had.

In the end it worked fine. After reversing the material once again I could do the final shaping of the hub. Just a simple chamfer on the top edge. I screwed up here.It was about time I made a decent leg vise, and this is how I did it.

The chop is the jaw of the vice that will clamp the work to the bench leg. I start by flattening the front face of the chop. The shape can be anything you want it, so here you can get a bit creative.

I start by drawing the shape of a bowtie on a scrap of hard maple this can be almost any shape you want. Next, Glue it in place. When dry plane it close to flat and use a card scraper to clean the surface.

To drill a hole through the chop into the leg I start by clamping the chop in place then mark out where the hole should me. I decided to make octagon shaped end caps. I chamfered the corners so that it then became an octagon. Then, I drilled a 1" hole in both ends that went in 1". I could then cut it in half and would have two end caps. The Spreader bar is nothing more than a 1 X 4 of whatever would you would want. Next, it is placed near the end of the leg. I use a marking knife to mark out where it will go then cut out a mortise to fit the bar.

If the fit is tight in the chop I do not glue it in compression will hold it in place and you may want to remove it in the future. A project like this jumps to 11 when you add a bit of carving. I know a lot of people think this is way too complicated but most everyone can pick this up in 5 to 15 minutes. I did all the carving on this leg in about 10 minutes. Give it a try I promise you will not be disappointed. I put a strip of leather on the chop side of the clamp to increase friction in the clamp.

With some DAP contact adhesive or Barge it will stay there for a lifetime. I clamp it in place overnight just to make sure the glue is fully cured.

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I use Boiled Linseed oil and paste wax for mine but you can use whatever finish you are comfortable with. I put a lot of extra wax on the threads of the screw and nut so it will run easily. This is the fun part when it comes to life. I used Brass to fit into the retention slot on the screw.

With two pieces this size I put them side by side and had a 4" square. I started by drilling a plate hole in the middle of the square, then used a 2" hole saw to cut a large hole in the middle of the square cutting a half circle out of each plate. Next, I drilled a hole in each of the 4 corners of the square for the mounting screws to be placed.

The Leg Vice – Simple & Heavy Duty

Cart 0. Flatten The Chop I start by flattening the front face of the chop.In woodworking and fabricating, a leg vise can be enormously useful. They offer a large, flat clamping surface on which you can impart a surprising amount of clamping force. A properly aligned leg vise can hold large workpieces such as doors or 6x6 beams. But few companies make proper woodworking leg vises or even the hardware for them.

The issue with making a leg vise is keeping the chop the part that moves parallel to the bench leg when under tension.

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This Instructable features a solution. I make all my leg vises at TechShop. Did you use this instructable in your classroom?

Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. On many traditional workbenches the chop is held parallel with a sliding wooden guide which is shot full of holes. The worker must place a pin in the hole closest to the bench when the vise bottoms-out. This procedure can get tiresome after a while.

Another option is to outfit the chop with a steel scissor-action mechanism which will keep it parallel at an infinitely divisible distance. This mechanism is often identified as St. The X-shaped intersection we see here looks more like St. You can learn more about Scotland from the books at your local library. I want to make the bars of the cross as long as possible so I'm mounting them just below the screw and having them extend almost to the floor.

On my 32" chop this make the bars 17" long. I will be using angle irons for this to prevent flexing in any direction. The bars will be hung from the top and bolted together at the center, the bottoms will float up as the vise is opened and down as it closes. The bolt has to hold the two bars together but not under tension. I am using a stainless steel collar bolt with just the right thickness of washers to hold the bars in place without squeezing them. I gave the bars a patina of iron oxide and a clear-coat to prevent rust.

I will lubricate them with sewing machine oil. Since the bars are an inch wide, the channels must be 2" wide and 1" deep. Since the bars will cross each other, there is still space for the extra height in the middle. I used a router to hog out most of the channel then cleaned it up with a chisel. I used a Forstner bit and a drill press for this to keep the hole as straight and perpendicular as possible.

Now cut the same hole and channel in the bench leg. The nut will be secured on the inside surface of the leg. It is important that the pins holding each of the bars are at the exact same height.

leg vise

Insert the pins through the leg and the inside bar. The pins should be tight but not permanent.

Benchcrafted Glide Leg Vise

The spacers will keep the bars from sliding along the pins. Make sure it has the necessary freedom of movement in the channel. The last part to secure should be the bolt at the intersection of the two bars.The VX 20 Leg Vise is a versatile, economical patented quick action vise mechanism that may be used as a leg vise or can also be made into a quick action face vise or be used just as you would use a conventional vise screw and nut.

The VX 20 is simply installed by drilling holes through the bench leg or apron and mounting with wood screws. A Delrin bearing is screwed into a counter-bored hole in the front of the bench leg or apron and supports the weight of the vise jaw. The Leg Vise handle is attached to the shaft with a quick release pin which allows the jaw to be removed entirely in seconds. The pin system also allows you to select either a wooden hub and handle or a metal hand wheel to customize your vise.

The hand wheel or wooden hub is sold separately to allow the consumer to fully customize the vise. Clamping action: Clockwise rotation with force equal to a 4 TPI threads per inch screw.

Lubrication: The clamp shaft may be lubricated if desired. Paste wax is recommended to keep work piece from being soiled.

Workbench Leg Vise

The internal mechanism is lubricated with grease. You must be logged in to post a review. Leg Vise There are no reviews yet. Quick action patented release handle No oil or grease needed Metal or wooden handle options Add X Link to eliminate the lower pin board creating the ultimate quick action leg vise.

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Category: Leg Vise. Description Additional information Reviews 0 Description The VX 20 Leg Vise is a versatile, economical patented quick action vise mechanism that may be used as a leg vise or can also be made into a quick action face vise or be used just as you would use a conventional vise screw and nut. Included parts: VX 20 vise mechanism with mounting screws.

Delrin bearing with mounting screws. Reviews There are no reviews yet. My Account Login.Beginning in the 19th century, vocational schools and commercial shops in France and its colonies were outfitted with Roubo's famous Plate style bench, but featuring metallic leg vise hardware instead of the wooden screws and forged fittings of Plate French leg vise hardware of this type is typically made entirely of metal, whereas hardware from Britain and America usually features a screw with a T-shaped iron casting through which a sliding wooden handle passes.

We designed ours around the French model for better function and looks. Researching extant vises and benches, we discovered a number of features that have all but disappeared from modern vise manufacture.

Easy DIY Roubo Leg Vise build

Here's how it differs. First, the traditional look will appeal to those looking for a more classic style.

Workbench Leg Vise

Second, the sliding handle and hub are lighter in weight than the Glide, so there is a bit more feedback when operating the Classic. The Glide does more of the clamping work "on its own" whereas one feels a bit more involved in the clamping process with the Classic. Both are excellent performers. Use aesthetics and cost as your deciding factors. Most modern vises use a single lead acme thread. Depending on pitch, these can function slowly, but with precision and control, or more quickly.

We've found the sweet spot. Face vises are generally used for a relatively narrow range of thicknesses, but when used in more open positions, the convenience of opening the jaws quickly and efficiently is a plus. This allows the parts to nest together and distribute clamping pressure over a wider area, especially when holding slightly non-parallel work. The sliding handle is machined with a v-groove detent centered along its length. This detent engages with a stainless steel spring plunger in the center of the hub, allowing one to quickly center the handle and thus balance it to spin rapidly for quick, gross adjustments.

In most cases, one can leave the handle centered after holding your workpiece. The spring plunger tension is adjustable.

A tighter setting makes it easier and quicker to center up the handle, but may inhibit the handle from sliding as freely.

There is a sweet spot that allows quick engaging with the spring plunger, and free sliding simultaneously. The plunger can be completely disengaged if desired. The Classic is made from machined steel and finished to echo the look of darkly patinated forged hardware.

To achieve this we Parkerize the handle, hub and flange. Commonly used on high quality hunting rifles, Parkerizing or manganese phosphate is a process which darkens the raw steel, which is first sandblasted, while also providing wear resistance and lubricity.

The process is more expensive than black oxide, yielding a more durable surface with an attractive dull black-gray look. A rub down with fine steel wood and a coat of light oil helps give the parts a vintage look, further lubricate, and provide excellent corrosion protection. See our installation instructions for further details. The Classic will work well for angled leg vises, as found on English-style workbenches. Because of the off-vertical forces placed on the Crisscross mechanism, you'll experience a slight reduction in friction-free action.

The vise still moves freely in and out, just a bit less than a completely vertical leg vise. We don't recommend building your vise any more than 15 degrees off the vertical axis if using the Classic Crisscross. The Classic is designed to be used with the Benchcrafted Crisscross for best function. The Crisscross completely supports the weight of the Classic hardware and a wooden chop while completely eliminating the need to adjust a pin as in a parallel guide.JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser.

For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. When you're working with hand tools, holding the workpiece securely is a must — and a solid bench vise is like an extra set of very strong hands. It can hold stock in a variety of positions, enabling you to make smoother saw cuts and more steady plane strokes.

We carry several types and sizes of vises, including models that permanently attach to your bench and others that can be clamped on and then removed between uses. Here's a little information to help you pick the vise that makes the most sense for your shop. There are two basic types of bench vise: the front vise and the end vise. The front vise, most often installed at the left corner of the long edge of the workbench, is great for holding a drawer side upright while you cut the tails of a dovetail joint or holding a board edge-up horizontally for hand planing.

The end vise, so named because it is installed at one end of the bench, is designed to hold material flat on the surface of the bench, secured between one or more "dogs" sticking up from the top of the vise's jaw and corresponding dogs fitted into holes in the bench surface.

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Many front vises also have a pop-up dog on the outer jaw to you hold stock flat on the table. A common type of front vise has cast-iron jaws and a steel screw that tightens and loosens the jaws.

Most also have steel rods to keep the jaws aligned and prevent flexing, and some have a quick-release mechanism that makes adjustment easy. Usually, the width of the jaws is used to describe the vise — Rockler's 7" Quick Release Vise has 7" wide jaws, for example.

Be sure to look for a vise that opens wide enough to accommodate the thickest piece of stock you can imagine yourself working on, and remember that you'll need to subtract the thickness of the of the wooden pads that you'll be installing on the cast-iron jaw faces. Good end vises also employ the screw-and-rod design, and they usually are sold with just the screw and guide-rod mechanism. You add the wooden jaw. Store Locator Shop. Shop National Woodworking Month Sale!

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